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Sunday morning, we cruised slowly to Haast, stopping at DoC walkways before arriving at the DoC Info centre for a look around. Another nice day on the cards and the view through their picture windows was memorable. After a quick drink we then drove through the a few small settlements towards Jacksons Bay, taking a turnoff to Cascade where the road turned to gravel for the next 22km before turning into a private road. At Cascade Lookout we ran into another traveller (from Napier), the 5th time in the past two days. Returning we stopped a while at Jacksons bay. My hopes on getting a seafood feast from its iconic cafe were dashed, it had closed for the summer season, two days before. We returned to Haast slowly, poking about here and there, doing a couple of walks, then dinner at the Haast Hotel and now parked up at the MCamp. It clouded over this afternoon, but the weather remains fine and warm.

         
Monday 2nd May - We give Haast Beach Mc just two stars from five, its miserable attitude to maintenance, equally matched by their roadside signage, none. We drove out of there early morning stopping to take in the two walks (in gentle rain) at Ship Creek then cruised slowly up the almost deserted highway at 70kph to various other lookouts knights Point, Bruce Bay etc, then to the highlight of the day, the Salmon Farm Cafe about 30km from Fox Glacier. We had a very nice lunch here then watched the farmed and wild salmon swimming in the pools beneath. The biggest of them would be a good 125mm girth, huge. Onwards to Fox Glacier where we did the 1km walk to the glacier face (weather had cleared up by now), then drove to our evening parkup at Gillespies Beach. We did a few of the walks, chased along by fantails and tomtits. After sunset five Spaceships joined us, one parking closer to us than you would at a supermarket.

It drizzled Tuesday morning, but that didnt stop us doing the 1.5hr Lake Mathieson walk, finishing it off with a bite to eat at the very nice Mathieson Cafe. Still raining, but mild, we drove to Franz Joseph and first stop, the informative Doc Centre. Yes we do have a laundromat, so off to do some essentials. The weather improved so we walked the town twice waiting for the drier to finish, bought tonights dinner in a can, then away to Okarito. Luckly the weather was still fine so we walked the town, beach, had a chat with the only other camper here at this very nice camp ground, showers, covered kitchen dining area all for little more than staying at a DoC reserve.

           
Wednesday. Showers overnight but still mild 15C or so. By the time we were ready to travel the rain came down relentlessly, pity the french couple who arrived late last evening, pitching their tent in the rain with just the illumination of their car headlights. Too wet to do any of the available walks, so a slow drive eventually stopping at Puke and the Bushman Centre. There no hiding their feelings on 1080, opossums or Aucklanders. We stopped for a smoko break, declining the menu Special offerings (yesterdays leftovers) instead opting for a road kill burger. When we returned the rain was torrential and stayed that way to Hokitika where we stopped for fuel, 950km since last filling up. Nearly pushed our luck too far, the tank remaining distance calculator gave up within coasting distance of the BP station. After 108lt diesel fillup, we stopped for some groceries then parked up at Shining Star motorcamp, still in torrential rain. The rain and wind have abated a little now, still wet as outside. But we are parked in the lee of the modern amenities block where we will offload-reload before investigating the local attractions tomorrow morning. It nice to at last be in radio and mobile contact since Saturday. We have only heard snippets of news, will feast on TV1 news tonight, thats all we watch on the move. Similarly the house battery has held out well, never getting below 75% capacity. The rain abated enough Wednesday evening for us to walk across the road and take in the views of the Hokitika Glowworm Dell and very impressive it is to, highly recommended.

       
Thursday, headed away to check out the Hokitika Gorge. While we drove out, the weather kept improving until we were in bright sunshine just as we started our walk. All very nice but the recent rain clouded the water so we missed out on seeing the lovely blue hues its renowned for. On our return, we came across a couple walking their Samoyed dog along the country road, so we stopped and chatted, for almost an hour. Then on the way this time to Dorothy Falls on the side of lake Kaniere. The road turned to soft muddy gravel, traction control light came on a few times as we powered through the slop. View the falls and mirrored calm of the lake at the top rest area. It was on this narrow winding road we had a very close call with a speeding truck/trailer combo leaving very little room and a very close shave, for a moment I wondered if our holiday was going to be halted there and then. After a lunch stop we toured Shantytown which was far more interesting than I remembered from my last visit, 35yrs ago. Then on to the nights stop, central Greymouth. Along with 12 others we shared POP 1477 arriving after dinner at Formally the Blackball Hilton hotel. Very interesting place, steeped in history (both the pub and town) but not enough time to do them justice with darkness closing in just as we arrived.

      
Friday. It rained heavily overnight, Lilly called us out three times. Did I mention we are travelling with our newest family member, Lilly white, a 4mth old Japanese Spitz. Yes it somewhat limiting in how long we can stay at attractions etc, but its introduced us to many people who we ordinarily not have conversed with. Most of our holiday so far has been, drive, walk & talk with very little time for rest. Ive only turned twenty or so pages in the book Im reading. Back to the journey, we drove slowly (yes 70kph) up SH6 admiring the views which improved along with the weather, stopping at Punakaiki. The sea wasn't up to much so no blowholes working. Next stop was Westport Coal Museum for a brief look through. We must return another time as the place is a historical gem on nearly everything West Coast. The videos along will take 2hrs to view, then there are all the displays as well, schedule half a day at this attraction. Next stop, Cape Foulwind carpark where we did the 7km return walk to the seal colony in mild but windy weather. Now, we are parked up at POP 1451, Fairdown 6km or so north of Westport, a West Coast country pub, a little rough around the edges the the publican has a heart of gold, should have, we are the only patrons tonight and nothing is too good for us!

Its now Sunday evening and we are parked up in Westport CBD carpark with three others at the rear of the Country Music hall where they are holding the "Best of the West" finals. Were not that into CM but I feined enough interest to park here, as the other spots are inundated with water due to the copious rain in the last few days.
Saturday morning in heavy rain we drove slowly up the coast stopping at Granity for a newspaper at the only business that looked like it might be open. It wasnt, despite the signage but The Press was bundled up at its front door. The only sign of life in this otherwise sleepy town, the public toilet cleaner said to help ourselves, put some coins in the stores letterbox and grabbed a paper as the shop would probably open up sometime later in the day!

      
We eventually made it to Karamea, the Cowshed Cafe being closed up for the winter (nice of them to leave the Open sign on the roadside) and Seddonville being closed up (30yrs ago Id say by the amount of fern & weed surrounding the houses). Thirsty as, we stopped for a caffeine fix, then headed to Kohaihai, stopping to take a photo when the rain and cloud lifted. Upon arrival we headed up the Heaphy Track, 40min or so later reaching the lookout destination. Back in the open the heavens opened up and two drowned rats returned to the MH to try and dry off. About 3pm we returned to Karamea wondering where to stay the night. The Domain Campground didnt look much but we parked up, connected then explored what was available. Heavens above, a fully furnished house, showers, kitchen, bunkroom, lounge with heater, book/magazine exchange, TV and all for $16/night. As it was pouring down outside we didnt need much convincing so we made ourselves at home, drying out wet gear and taking a nice hot shower to finish off the evening.

         
Sunday - with the weather clearing, we headed away up the Oparara Caves road which quickly turned to a narrow, tight gravel grovel, no wonder the roadsign suggested it wasnt suitable for MH. I certainly needed the toilet stop at the road end. We then took three of the walks on offer, in increasing drizzle, but it didnt mar the views of Oparara and Moira Archways. Spectacular would be an understatement. Shame they are so large, my camera couldnt take it all in. Three hours later we returned to the MH then drove to Karamea for a Mothers Day lunch at The Last Resort cafe. In the afternoon, we drove here to Westport in torrential rain, surface flooding everywhere.

Tuesday evening and here we are at Amberley Beach domain along with a dozen or so others, parked up and inside as its cold & breezy outside, clear though and most importantly, not raining.
We departed central Westport, Monday morning, under grey clouds, stopping first at Inangahua Junction, ostensibly for a coffee fix but the country store didn’t look up to very much in that department. Luckily we parked beside the local community hall, which was open, advertising recent local earthquake history. So we poked our noses inside and read through the numerous panels and displays. After 45min or so, we turned around and followed highway 69 to Reefton, where at least the sun was kind of peeking through the clouds.

             
By chance parked outside a local hotel, where we were all (Lilly White included) invited in to meet the three staff and sit down inside to a coffee. We couldn’t chance Lilly not leaving her calling card, so dined outside and decided what to next. A tour of the town & Info centre, then lunch by the park. The weather was improving so we took the Powerhouse walk, returning an hour or so later. It had clouded over now, we had fulfilled our goals travelling the extreme south/north ends of the West Coast (Cascade Lookout to Kohaihai) it was time to move on. Springs Junction where everything was still wet so onwards to Marble Hill campsite, no better wet, muddy and puddles everywhere so we took the chance and headed to Hanmer Springs, arriving around 4pm to dry roads, grass and surrounds.
Tuesday morning, after walking the business district and chatting to business owners (two of whom came outside to ask about Lilly - business must very slow), then drove to Waiau where we turned on to the Leader Road heading east to SH1. Plenty of low hanging & dropped fruit along this route.
I had hoped to impress Helen with the mouth watering delights of the Domett Railway Café but it was not to be, closed until spring. Well at least they had an excuse - a new family member had arrived and not the downturn in travellers. We drove south stopping at Mudhouse Wines for a late lunch, very nice too, reasonably priced and nice surroundings. Our Chch friends were not at home so we turned east for tonight’s stopover. 

Did I mention we have Tourist Radio keeping us company on the trip. It’s a GPS radio that plays horrible squealy 1980s songs (a 10hr replay time) but makes announcements about places your soon to pass through as well as general NZ info. That as well as adverts of course. Its been interesting and at $40 per time (we will have had ours for four weeks) its good value I guess. We turn the volume down to barely audible then turn it up as announcements are always preceded by a distinctive ding dong.

Here we are, Thursday evening parked up at Victoria Park, Waimate. The suns gone down marking the end of a very nice day, Lilly White chewing her bone outside.
Two nights back we were parked at Amberley Beach. On Wednesday morning we departed, stopping first at Rangiora for a look about as we’d never been there before. Helen bought a replacement knitting needle, the original parking itself at the dash/windscreen junction and unable to be retrieved with the tools we have onboard. At least it doesn't rattle, or if it does its hidden in the cacophony of rattles and bangs from allover the MH as we move down the road. We passed through Chch stopping at Lyttelton hoping to part some cash into this devastated community, but very little was open, most of the retail area has been well & truly trashed.

       
Onwards to Diamond Harbour where we met an Australian couple looking for the way to Akaroa. They took off over the low saddle while we travelled to Port Levy then a cattle track over Wild Cattle Hill to Pigeon Bay where we stopped for lunch. I must stop taking on these remote gravel roads as we could have been seriously compromised had we met oncoming traffic. The weather was cool and threatening, mist hiding the views from the Summit Road to Akaroa, then parking up at the Top10, though I won’t be giving it that many points due to its poor lighting, mismanagement of shower blocks, non working plugs and grubbiness creeping in. We had a good enough site though, nice & quiet and away from the main body of campers.

 
Today, Thursday, we had probably the 2nd best day weather wise, blue skies, warm NWesterly and easy flowing traffic. I stopped at Chch Jayco to pick up the recalled heat deflector, then ambled down the road to Ashburton for Lunch. We stopped at Winchester hoping to stay at the Motorcamp, but it was closed to everyone but the couple staying in a caravan while their vehicle was being repaired. So onwards to Waimate where we originally planned. Its supposed to be a POP but I cant workout where that is, so here we stay. Not to bad price wise, the facilities are modern, grounds clean & looked after, very nice.
Tomorrow we travel home, expect to arrive around midday. Ive txt the kids as much so expect to come home to a spic & span household, we will see.
OK, the highlights & lowlights of our two weeks away. 

Highlights
Glow Worm Dell Hokitika, Oparara & Moira Arched Caves, Salmon Farm near Ross, Fox Glacier, Lake Mathieson, Okarito Lagoon, Karamea Mcamp, Kohaihai, Lake Kaniere, Bushman Café at Puke, Southern Cross Jnr display at Harihari, Hokitika Gorge, Blackball Pub and the travellers we came across.

Lowlights
Gillespies Beach – reeking toilets and very late night arrivals of campervans, the POP at Fairdown, and the mossie (who really only troubled us south of Greymouth).